Spain Guide
Euskal Herria: the País Vasco & Navarra
Eating
1 Cafe La Granja Plaza Circular Founded in 1926, this spacious and elegant French-style café features iron columns and beautiful Art Nouveau lamps. Drinks and pintxos are served all day. Opening time: Mon– Sat 5.30am–2am
2 
Cafe Iruña Jardines de Albia (on Colón de Larreategui) This historic café and bar was established in 1903, its elaborate murals and ornate Mudéjar decor and tiling making it marvellously atmospheric. It´s a great place for a drink or a few pintxos – the pinchos morunos, or mini-kebabs, are especially worth trying (€2).
3 Artajo c/Ledesma 7 One of the best pintxos options outside the Casco Viejo, this venerable old bar, one of several on c/Ledesma, knocks out superb mussels in piquant anchovy and tomato sauce (tigres) from Yurre, a small village in Bizkaia. Opening time: Tues– Sun 10am–11pm
4 Atlanta c/Rodríguez Arias 28 A popular local bar celebrated for its jamón serrano, steak sandwiches and fried calamari.Price: Menú €13 Opening time: Daily 7am–2am
5 Berton c/Jardínes 1 Friendly Casco Viejo bar, a warm inviting space with some outside tables and lots of drinking space inside. Fresh modern pintxos at €1.70, including quails' eggs with prawns and mushrooms, and lots of ham options, plus raciones of ham, anchovies and the like.
6 Busterri c/Licenciado Poza 43 The best pintxos bar in Ensanche: specialities include grilled anchovies and jamón jabugo (a rare cured ham from southwest Spain).Price: Menú €13.50 Opening time: Tues– Sun 10am–1am
7 Café Bar Bilbao Plaza Nueva 6 Exceptional anchovy, ham and bacalao al pil-pil pintxos, served by simpatico staff, with everything labelled on the counter in the stylish old blue-tiled café, and some tables on the Casco Viejo's lovely main square. Opening time: Daily 9.30am–11pm (closed Sun afternoons)
8 Los Fueros c/Fueros 6 If you fancy getting away from the crowds, nip behind the back of Plaza Nueva and try this small bar, specializing in grilled prawns (gambas) and barnacles (percebes). Opening time: Mon, Tues & Thurs– Sat 11am–3pm & 6.30–10pm, Sun 10.30am–3pm
9 Gatz c/Santa María 10. A cosy late-night tapas bar serving exquisite cod pintxos and a special Basque-style ratatouille. It's also a good place for a tinto or beer at night. Opening time: Mon– Thurs 1–3pm & 7–11pm, Fri 1–3pm & 7– midnight, Sat 1pm– midnight, Sun 1–3pm
10 Taberna Txiriboga c/Santa María 13 Lively little white-tiled tapas bar in the heart of the Casco Viejo, with a wide selection of pintxos. Opening time: Mon– Sat 1–3pm & 7–11pm
11 Xukela c/El Perro 2 With its red panelling and check tablecloths, this Casco Viejo tapas bar is oddly reminiscent of a French bistro, but it serves a wide range of snacks and a top-class wine list, with a lot of open space for drinkers who prefer to stand.
12 Amboto c/Jardines 2 This attractive, traditional Basque dining room sits above the Amboto tapas bar, with a huge menu, but bacalao (€14) is the speciality.
13 Casa Rufo c/Hurtado de Amézaga 5 
944 432 172 A deservedly popular cocina, with three cosy, themed dining rooms specializing in three main items: cod and two types of unbelievably succulent steak (chuleton), the main reason you'll need a reservation – it's priced by the kilo. Price: At least €50 for two people
14 Etxanobe Euskalduna, Avda Abandoibarra 4 944 421 071 
en.etxanobe.com The Euskalduna restaurant is another culinary star, run by yet another celebrated chef, Fernando Canales, who creates incredibly innovative, contemporary cuisine. Price: Mains from €25, €57 tasting menú Opening time: Closed Sun
15 Museo Guggenheim Café & Restaurant 944 239 333. Superb nueva cocina from the Martin Berasatagui stable at the restaurant, and a surprisingly inexpensive lunch menú (€13.50) at the café (). Be sure to reserve a table. Opening time: Restaurant closed Tues eve, Mon & Sun; cafe Tues– Sun 9am–9pm
16 Ortua Alameda Mazarredo 18. Homely vegetarian restaurant doing an excellent menú for €9 – the servers will read you the choices. Convenient for a break from the Guggenheim. Opening time: Mon– Fri 1–3.30pm
17 El Perro Chico Aretxaga 2 944 150 519 This traditional Basque cocina, overlooking the south bank of the river, became a big hit after Frank Gehry claimed it was his favourite – the seafood is particularly good. Opening time: Closed Mon lunch & Sun
18 Río Oja c/El Perro 6 Old-fashioned, inexpensive Casco Viejo restaurant with an unusual emphasis on hearty stews and sauces; sample some snails or mussels in a spicy red sauce, or get a full seafood cazuela.
19 Serantes c/Licenciado Poza 16 944 212 129 A top-notch marisquería. Watch for specials on langostino and other crustacean delights. There's also an excellent tapas bar. Opening time: Daily 10am–1am; closed Tues evePrice: €50
20 Victor Montes Plaza Nueva 8 This atmospheric bar and dining room, lined with a collection of over 1600 wines, offers traditional grills, special hams and fresh fish in its popular restaurant, or sumptuous pintxos; tables on the square in summer. Opening time: Tues– Sun 10am–11pm
21 Zortziko Alameda Manzarredo 17 944 239 743 www.zortziko.es An extremely fancy restaurant, with Parisian decor and some of the finest nueva cocina dishes concocted by acclaimed chef Daniel Garcia.Price: Mains €25 and up Opening time: Closed Sun & Mon