Spain Guide
Catalunya
Eating
1 Le Bistrot Pujada de Sant Domènec 4 Stylish, belle-époque decor inside, massively popular tables on steps outside. Evening meals, however, don't quite live up to the surroundings; best stick to the better-value lunchtime menú or just a drink.
2 Boira Plaça de la Independencia 17 The best food on the square, very popular with locals and visitors alike, with plaça tables or a river-view salon inside. Very good quality if not terribly generous tapas, and wine by the glass (Up to €20 for two), or push the boat out at the a la carta-only restaurant, with plats del dia for €7–15.
3 La Crêperie Bretonne c/Cort Reial 14 Savoury and sweet crêpes, prepared by a French expat, plus salads and Breton cider, form the basis of good-value menús. Narrow street frontage belies the vast, striking interior, which is dominated by a converted minibus (part of the pantry). Summer tables in the street. Opening time: Closed Sun, & Wed lunchtime in winter
4 El Cul de la Lleona Calderers 8 Cosy if potentially pricey bistro specializing in Moroccan dishes; three courses (including house wine and lovely Catalan or North African sweets) can run to €30. Also a much cheaper "local" menú at lunchtime, plus summer tables on the nearby fountain-plaça. Opening time: Closed Mon & Sun
5 La Força Vella c/de la Força 4 Cheap-and-cheerful old-quarter option, with quantity (generous) often taking precedence over quality. Menús served in the stone-clad area in front of the bar, or at tables outside; rich fare encompasses snails, sausage, rabbit and kidneys. Price: Menús €15 Opening time: Until 4pm for lunch, 11pm for dinner
6 El Pou de la Call c/de la Força 14 More-elaborate-than-usual dishes served in exceptionally pleasant surroundings right next to the Call; menús comprise three courses such as vegetarian terrina, squid rings with parsley and garlic, plus baked apple with custard, but a la carta is more varied. No outdoor seating, but a/c premises.Price: Allow €30 a la carta
7 Taj c/Cort Reial 6 
972 222 655 All the North Indian/Bengali standards, with a stress on tandoori dishes, at this hole-in-the-wall, though purists will be outraged by such things as artichokes in the balti. But it's cheapish, friendly and very popular – bookings mandatory.
8 Cafeteria Sol Plaça del Vi No-nonsense place that's good for breakfast or plats combinats under the arcade.
9 Zanpanzar c/Cort Reial 10–12 Started life to great acclaim as a tapas bar doing Basque-style pintxos such as bacalao and Gernika pimientos (€5 & up); there's now an attached full-on restaurant (menú €10; allow €25 a la carta). Opening time: Closed Mon