Spain Guide
Castilla y León and La Rioja
Eating
1 Café España Plaza Fuente Dorada 8 A nice, straight-up café-bar with black-and-white photos on the walls and a small stage at the back, serving as a regular venue for live jazz.
2 El Caballo de Troya c/Correos 1 
983 339 355 An enticing blend of historic palacio and contemporary design, with meals either in the award-winning restaurant or slightly cheaper taverna, both with menús (€22 in the restaurant; €12.50 in the taverna) and pricier à la carte dishes. Alternatively, you might just be able to have a drink in the gem of a Renaissance courtyard.
3 
Covadonga c/Zapico 1 983 330 798 A straightforward place dishing up home-cooked meals at bargain prices, with nothing much over €6 or €7 (only a huge chuletón at €12.50, and lots for considerably less). You can hardly go wrong – only the television, broadcasting to Mars, spoils the experience.
4 Jero c/Correos 11 Valladolid has a creative tapas competition every year and Jero often comes out on top, with its remarkable sculpted canapés called things like "Matrix", "Galactico" or "Mission Impossible" (this last, for example, a bacalo-and mushroom montadito topped with tomato confit, prawn and almond crunch), sold at €2 a pop.
5 Milvinos Plaza Marti y Monso 983 344 336 Very slick contemporary grill-house with a terrific wine list. Anything from a house burger to tuna steak or a chuletón, plus carpaccios and salads, but you'll easily spend €50 if you're not careful.