Spain Guide
Castilla y León and La Rioja
Eating
1 Don Gutierre Plaza Don Gutierre 4 Quality raciones and wine in a quieter square on the edge of the main bar zone – you can drink and eat inside or out, sampling things such as chorizo in cider, pimientos with anchovies or calamares in ink.Price: Raciones €6–12
2 Latino Plaza San Martín 10 A popular tapas bar that's serious about its food and wine, with usually a choice of a couple of free snacks with a drink, as well as a restaurant at the back that serves a wide variety of Leonese dishes (€8–16).
3 
El Rincón del Gaucho c/Azabachería 1 Tucked in a back alley off San Martín, this classic old-town tapas bar is best known for its delicious, garlicky patatas gauchos, served with every drink.
4 La Trebede Plaza Torres de Omaña A cosy bar that's a bit of an Old Curiosity Shop, once you start to examine the shelves and ornaments. There's always a good tapa served with your drink, plus more than thirty wines by the glass.
5 Artesanos c/Juan de Arfe 2 
987 215 322 Set on the first floor around the courtyard of the seventeenth-century Palacio Jabalquinto, with an innovative, seasonal menu of nouveau Leonese cuisine, including lots of fresh fish. Price: Mains €15–20
6 Casa Luisón Plaza Puerta Obispo 16 987 254 029 A real find for a reliable cheap meal in the heart of the tourist zone, by the cathedral. Old-time bar out front, and comedor in the back serving a good €9 menú, plus inexpensive snacks and à la carte dishes.
7 Taberna La Piconera Plaza Santa María del Camino 2 987 212 607 Lunch on the pretty cobbled square is a treat, enjoying a simple but tasty €10.50 menú. It's a contemporary place inside, with dishes to share – prawns to carpaccio, mussels to tempura veg – and a good line in grilled meats. Price: €30 and upwards
8 Zuloaga c/Sierra Pambley 3 987 237 814 Sophisticated, stylish restaurant, with romantic candlelit garden terrace, which produces a seasonal menu of Leonese cuisine with an unusual amount of flair and imagination. Main courses start at €16, though there's a lunchtime menú for around the same price.