Spain Guide
Cantabria and Asturias
Cudillero
CUDILLERO is a delightful, picturesque little fishing port, 25km west of Avilés. The brightly coloured arcaded houses that rise, one above the other, up the steep horseshoe of cliffs that surround the port give it the feel, and appeal, of a Greek island, and it's usually thronged with visitors in summer. There's no beach here, however – the nearest is Playa Aguilar, 3km east – so the most obvious attractions are the fish tavernas in its cobbled, seaside plaza.
The most direct route down into Cudillero is a precipitous and very narrow road that twists its way down the cliffs from the FEVE station, a stiff 25-minute walk or a hair-raising drive. Motorists would do better to follow the longer road that leaves the N632 a couple of kilometres further west, and approaches the village along the coast, passing the only sizeable car park. .
Cudillero makes a lovely overnight stop, and is perfectly placed for passengers using Asturias airport, 12km east. The nicest hotel in the village is the gorgeous old 
La Casona de Pio, by the harbour at c/Riofrio 3 (985 591 512, www.arrakis.es/~casonadepio; closed Jan; €71-100), with en-suite rooms, room service and a great restaurant. Rates at the cosy seven-room Pensión El Camarote, further up hill at c/García de la Concha 4 (985 591 202, www.elcamarote.es; €51-70), include breakfast, while the neighbouring Pensión Alver, c/García de la Concha 8 (985 590 005, www.pensionalver.com; €36-50), is a pleasant and somewhat cheaper alternative; both also offer large family rooms. The best of the local campsites is Camping Cudillero, above Playa Aguilar (985 590 663, www.campingcudillero.com; closed Oct to mid-May except Easter).
Comparing menus at the many restaurants that squeeze into Cudillero's focal square is a real joy; the Isabel, right by the water, is consistently excellent, while the adjoining La Paloma serves delicious raciones.