Spain Guide
Cantabria and Asturias
Bulnes
BULNES is a tiny but delightful stone-built mountain village, nestled in the cleft cut by the Río Tejo between two high peaks. Long the exclusive preserve of hardy hikers, it's still coming to terms with the daily influx of nonchalant sightseers who now arrive on the funicular from Poncebos – when you emerge from the railway tunnel, it lies just a couple of hundred metres up and to the left, along an easy footpath. Many visitors now bring baby-buggies, and romping infants contrast strangely with exhausted trekkers in the two streamside cafés in the heart of the village.
Also alongside the stream, 
La Casa del Chiflon (t985 845 943, www.casadelchiflon.com; €51-70) is a lovely little B&B, with a cosy bar and restaurant, that offers simple rooms for two, three or four guests. Another 200m uphill to the west, clearly visible from the village, El Caleyon (985 845 945, www.caleyon.eu; €51-70) is very similar, and has a large mountain-view terrace.