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Spain Guide

Cantabria and Asturias

Eating

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    1 Bodega Mazon c/Hernán Cortés 57 Bodega serving tasty local food, such as chipirones and tortilla, plus wine and sidra, amid vast wine vats. Opening time: Closed Sun

    2 Bodega del Riojano c/Río de la Pila 5 Traditional bodega serving good tapas, with a flagstone floor, beautifully painted casks and antique furniture. Popular with the thirty-plus crowd. Opening time: Closed Sun eve & Mon

    3 La Cañía c/Joaquín Costa 45, Sardinero Unpretentious restaurant with excellent seafood and a good menú.Price: Menú€13

    4 Casa Goria Travesía la Pila Traditional tiled tapas bar, just off c/Río de la Pila, where the ceiling is adorned with hanging Cantabrian hams. Wonderful empanadas and pinchos, with a dining room at the back, should the popular bar be a little claustrophobic.

    5 La Casa del Indiano Mercado del Este, c/Hernán Cortés 4 Very attractive South American-style sit-down bar inside the flagstone-floored market, open from breakfast onwards for drinks and snacks, with a fine spread of pintxos.

    6 Cervecería Lisboa Plaza Italia, Sardinero. Of the clutch of restaurants in front of the casino, all with summer terrazas, this serves the best food.Price: Menú€22

    7 Author Pick La Conveniente c/Gómez Oreña 19 Very old-fashioned and very atmospheric nineteenth-century bodega with live music and fried fish, and other delicious, but pricey, snacks. Opening time: From 7pm; closed Sun

    8 La Gaviota c/Marqués de la Ensanada, Barrio de Puerto Pesquero The best of several similarly busy, unpretentious seafood restaurants down by the port, featuring a street barbecue of spectacular, freshly caught seafood. You can spend anything, from a few euros for a menú or plate of sardines, to a small fortune for fishy exotica.

    9 Restaurante Cañadio and Bar Cañadio Plaza Cañadio 942 314 149 The Cañadio is the city's most famous restaurant, known far and wide for the sublime fish and regional cooking of Paco Quirós. Typical main dishes cost €18–24, or you can simply join the foodies at the more modest bar, snacking on delicious raciones (€9–13) or the even cheaper canapés.

    10 Restaurante Emilio c/Cadiz 5 Handily placed near the bus station, with excellent fish soup and fabada, and friendly service.