Barcelona Guide
La Ribera
By way of contrast to Sant Pere, the old artisans' quarter of La Ribera, to the south – lying across c/de la Princesa – has always been a big draw, by virtue of the presence of the graceful church of Santa María del Mar, the city's most perfect expression of the Catalan-Gothic style, and the Museu Picasso, Barcelona's biggest single tourist attraction. The barri's cramped, narrow streets were at the heart of medieval industry and commerce, and the neighbourhood is still a centre of creativity, the location of choice for many contemporary designers, craftspeople and artists. Meanwhile La Ribera is at its most hip in the area around the Passeig del Born, whose cafés, restaurants and bars make it one of the city's premier nightlife centres.
For time out from the old town's historic intrigues and labyrinthine alleys, retreat to the city's favourite park, the Parcde la Ciutadella, on the eastern edge of La Ribera. It holds a full set of attractions, from greenhouses to museums, but on lazy summer days there's little incentive to do any more than stroll the shady garden paths and pilot rowboats across the placid ornamental lake.