Barcelona Guide
El Raval
Mercat de Sant Antoni
Address: Intersection of Ronda de Sant Pau and Ronda de Sant Antoni
Opening time: Mon– Thurs & Sat 7am–2.30pm & 5.30–8.30pm, Fri 7am–8.30pm
At the Raval's western edge, the handsome Mercat de Sant Antoni is the neighbourhood's major produce market, dating from 1876. It makes a pointed contrast to the Boqueria – there are not nearly so many tourists, for a start – and unlike the other city markets, it's surrounded by enclosed aisles packed with stalls selling cheap shoes, underwear, T-shirts, children's clothes, bed linen, towels and other household goods. Come on Sunday and there's a book and coin market (9am–2pm) here instead, with collectors and enthusiasts arriving early to pick through the best bargains.
Most of Barcelona's old markets are being revamped, as the nineteenth-century engineering starts to fail, and Sant Antoni is no exception: it is to be remodelled entirely by 2012, though its external character will be retained and a temporary market installed on Ronda de Sant Antoni while works continue. The book and coin market will continue in the vicinity too. Meanwhile, the traditional place to take a break from shopping is Els Tres Tombs, the restaurant-bar across the road on the corner of Ronda de Sant Antoni, open from 6am until late for a good-natured mix of market traders, locals, students and tourists.