Spain Guide
Around Madrid
The Alcázar
At the heart of modern Toledo is the Plaza de Zocódover (its name derives from the Arabic word souk), where everyone converges for an afternoon drink. Dominating this square, indeed all Toledo, is the bluff, striking Alcázar. There has probably always been a fortress at this commanding location, and though the present building was originated by Carlos V, it has been burned and bombarded so often that almost nothing remaining is original. The most recent destruction was in 1936 during one of the most symbolic and extraordinary episodes of the Civil War.
After the war, Franco's regime completely rebuilt the fortress as a monument to the glorification of its defenders – the Fascist newspaper El Alcázar also commemorates the siege – and their propaganda models and photos are still displayed, as well as the cellars where the besieged families hid. The rest of the building houses an Army Museum that will eventually contain all the exhibits from the former Army Museum in Madrid.
The Alcázar also offers the best views of the town, its upper windows level with the top of the cathedral spire (though in recent years access has been restricted, as part of the building is still occupied by the military).