Spain Guide
Andalucía
Bars and Nightlife
1 Bar Europa Junction of c/Alcaicería de Loza and c/Siete Revueltas Fine old watering hole with lots of cool tiled walls, plus excellent manzanilla and a variety of tapas served on marble-topped tables.
2 
Bar Giralda c/Mateus Gagos 1 Excellent and popular bar in a converted ancient Moorish bathhouse, with a wide selection of tapas.
3 Casa Morales c/García de Vinuesa 11 Atmospheric traditional bar (founded 1850) with barrelled wine and a few tablas (tapas served on wooden boards).
4 Las Teresas c/Santa Teresa 2 Good beer and sherry served in this atmospheric bar with hanging cured hams and tiled walls lined with faded corrida photos. It's also worth stopping here for breakfast the morning after.
5 Taberna Coloniales II c/Fernandez y González 36 Offspring of the similarly named establishment in Plaza Cristo de Burgos, this is up to the same high standard. Tapas are served at the bar, but cornering a table will allow you to feast on a wide (and fair-priced) range including solomillo al whisky (pork loin); and they also let you round it off with coffee and desserts de la casa.
6 Bar Anselma c/Pagés del Corro 49. Fine old place with a neo-Moorish facade owned by a dueña with many Rocío connections (every night at midnight the lights are dimmed and the Rocío hymn is sung). If you're lucky, you may just catch some of the best impromptu flamenco in town. House specials include caldereta (lamb stewed in fino), and pisto (stewed vegetables). Opening time: Doesn't open till 11pm; closed Sun
7 Bar Bistec c/Pelay y Correa 34 Ancient and hearty Triana hostelry, with outdoor tables in summer. Specials include cabrillas (spicy snails), codorniz en salsa (quail) and pan de mi pueblo (cod gazpacho). Opening time: Closed Wed
8 El Capote c/Radio Sevilla off c/Arjona. Popular summer terrace bar with a varied clientele that gets younger as the night wears on. Sometimes has live music.
9 El Paseo c/Paseo de Colón 2 Small gay bar playing 1970s, 80s and 90s music.
10 Embarcadero c/Betis 69 Down a narrow passage to the side of the Río Grande restaurant, this is a great little copas bar with a riverside terrace and a stunning view towards the Torre del Oro and cathedral across the river. Opening time: Daily 5pm until late
11 Ritual c/José de Gálvez s/n, in La Cartuja This Indian-inspired terrace is decorated with Hindu art and whimsical swings. You can cozy up in one of many secluded corners or do your moves to techno music on a dancefloor. A surprise here is a miniature model of Andalucía rescued from Expo ‘92.
12 Bar Eslava c/Eslava 3–5 Very good and extremely popular – which often means you can't get through the door – tapas bar with an outstanding, equally excellent restaurant attached.
13 Bulebar Alameda de Hércules 83 Lively copas bar that does good tapas and stays open late, with an outdoor plant-filled terrace looking onto the Alameda. They often stage theatre or other music shows.
14 El Rinconcillo c/Gerona 32 Seville's oldest bar (founded in 1670) does a fair tapas selection as well as providing a hang-out for the city's literati.
15 Sopa de Ganso ("Duck Soup") c/Pérez Galdos 8 Young, lively bar in one of the city's main nightlife zones. On offer are tagarninas (a pastie) and pudín de verduras (vegetable bake). Until midnight it operates as a tapas bar and – on the stroke of twelve – the illumination changes from orange to blue, the food stops and it becomes a late-night copas bar with cool sounds.
16 Los Gallos Plaza Santa Cruz
www.tablaolosgallos.com The nearest you'll get to an authentic flamenco show, with a professional cast.Price: €30 incl. one drink
17 El Tamboril Plaza Santa Cruz Renowned flamenco bar. Singers and dancers aren't guaranteed to drop in (around midnight is best), but when they do, you're in for an unforgettable night.
18 La Carbonería c/Levies 18 Excellent bar that often has spontaneous flamenco (try Thurs after 10pm). It used to be the coal merchants' building (hence the name) and is a large, simple and welcoming place.
19 Bar Quita Pesares Plaza Jerónimo de Córdoba Chaotic bar, run by a flamenco singer, where there's often impromptu music, especially at weekends, when things get lively around midnight.
20 Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus c/Jiménez de Enciso 28
954 560 670 Flamenco concerts most nights.Price: Entry around €14; tickets must be booked in advance