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Spain Guide

Andalucía

Eating

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    1 Author Pick Amaltea c/Ronda de Isasa 10 957 491 968 Excellent organic restaurant with lots of veggie options, run by a charming Wolverhampton-educated cordobésa. Specialities of the house include tabulé de cous-cous and calabacín con cabrales (courgettes with strong cheese). Plenty of organic wines and a few special beers, too – try the Alhambra 1925. Some dishes are pricier, but it's possible to eat here for under €15. Opening time: Closed Mon

    2 Bar Plateros c/San Francisco 6 Specializes in Montilla-Moriles, the local barrelled wine (vaguely similar to a mellow, dry sherry), and is a good spot to try fiti-fiti, a half-and-half combo of white and sweet white wine. Also turns out great tapas.

    3 Bar-Restaurante Barril c/Concepción 16 Efficient tapas and breakfast bar with a small terrace and serving all-day platos combinados. Some vegetarian dishes.

    4 Casa Paco Acedo Beneath the Torre de la Malmuerta The house specialities at this celebrated, good-value cordobés institution include salmorejo and a memorable rabo de toro.

    5 El Choto c/Almanzor 10 957 760 115 Attractive, small and serious restaurant offering a range of well-prepared fish and meat dishes including its signature dish choto asado (roast kid). There's a four-course menú de degustación for €35 including wine and a menú de la casa for around €18 (both Tues– Fri). Opening time: Closed Sun eve & Mon

    6 Author Pick El Churrasco c/Romero 16 (not c/Romero Barros) 957 290 819 This renowned restaurant with attractive rooms and patio is famous for its churrasco (a grilled pork dish, served with pepper sauces) and salmorejo (a thick Córdoban version of gazpacho with hunks of ham and egg). Expensive but offers an interesting menú de degustación for around €30. Opening time: Closed Aug

    7 Author Pick El Gallo c/María Cristina 6 Another classic old cordobés drinking hole, which has changed little since it opened at the turn of the twentieth century; try their gambas rebozadas (fried prawns) washed down with outstanding amargoso Montilla from their own bodega.

    8 Mesón San Basilio c/San Basilio 19 Good and unpretentious busy local restaurant offering well-prepared fish and meat raciones and platos combinados, plus a weekday menú for €12.

    9 Los Mochuelos c/Agustín Moreno 51 Traditional tapas and raciones restaurant with large variety of dishes including revuelto de setas con salmón and mochuelitos (spicy meat); plenty of atmosphere, stacked sherry butts, bullfight posters and a pleasant patio.

    10 El Rincón del Carmen c/Romero 4 Small, pleasant café-restaurant with a charming patio terrace below and restaurant upstairs, serving inexpensive raciones and media raciones.

    11 Taberna Salinas c/Tundidores 3 Century-old, reasonably priced taberna with dining rooms around a charming patio. Good raciones place – try their naranjas con bacalao (cod with oranges) – and serves a great salmorejo.

    12 Taberna San Miguel (El Pisto) Plaza San Miguel 1 Known to all as El Pisto (The Barrel), this is one of the city's legendary bars – over a century old – and not to be missed. Wonderful montilla and tapas; rabo de toro and callos en salsa picante (tripe in spicy sauce) are house specials. Opening time: Closed Aug