Scotland Guide
The Highlands
The Highland region of Scotland, covering the northern two-thirds of the country, holds much of the mainland's most spectacular scenery: a classic combination of mountains, glens, lochs and rivers surrounded on three sides by a magnificently pitted and rugged coastline. You may be surprised at just how remote much of it still is: the vast peat bogs in the north, for example, are among the most extensive and unspoilt wilderness areas in Europe, while a handful of the west coast's isolated crofting villages can still be reached only by boat.
Highlights
1 West Highland Railway From Glasgow to Mallaig via Fort William: the further north you travel, the more spectacular it gets.
2 The Cairngorms Scotland's grandest mountain massif, a place of rare plants, wild animals, inspiring vistas and challenging outdoor activities.
3 Glen Coe Spectacular, moody, poignant and full of history – a glorious place for hiking or simple admiration.
4 Knoydart Only reached by boat or a two-day hike over the mountains, this peninsula also boasts mainland Britain's most isolated pub, the welcoming Old Forge.
5 Wester Ross Scotland's finest scenery – a heady mix of dramatic mountains, rugged sea lochs, sweeping bays and scattered islands.
6 Cromarty Set on the fertile Black Isle, this charming small town boasts beautiful vernacular architecture and dramatic east-coast scenery.
The West Highland Railway
Scotland's most famous railway line is the brilliantly engineered West Highland Railway, running from Glasgow to Mallaig via Fort William. The line is in two sections: the southern part travels from Glasgow along the Clyde estuary and up Loch Long before switching to the banks of Loch Lomond on its way to Crianlarich, where the train divides with one section heading for Oban. After climbing around Beinn Odhar on a unique horseshoe-shaped loop of viaducts, the line traverses desolate Rannoch Moor, where the track had to be laid on a mattress of tree roots, brushwood and thousands of tons of earth and ashes. The train then swings into Glen Roy, passing through the dramatic Monessie Gorge and entering Fort William from the northeast.
The second leg of the journey, from Fort William to Mallaig, is arguably even more spectacular, and from June to mid-October one of the scheduled services is pulled by the Jacobite Steam Train (Mon– Fri, also Sat & Sun July & Aug; departs Fort William 10.20am, departs Mallaig 2.10pm; day-return £28; book on
01524/737751;
www.steamtrain.info ). Shortly after leaving Fort William the railway crosses the Caledonian Canal beside Neptune's Staircase by way of a swing bridge at Benavie, before travelling along the shores of Locheil and crossing the magnificent 21-arch viaduct at Glenfinnan, where the steam train, in its "Hogwarts Express" livery, was filmed for the Harry Potter movies. At Glenfinnan station there's a small museum dedicated to the history of the West Highland line, as well as two old railway carraiges which have been converted into a restaurant and a bunkhouse. Not long afterwards the line reaches the coast, where there are unforgettable views of the Small Isles and Skye as it runs past the famous silver sands of Morar and up to Mallaig, where there are connections to the ferry that crosses to Armadale on Skye.
If you're planning on travelling the West Highland line, and in particular linking it to other train journeys (such as the similarly attractive route between Inverness and Kyle of Lochalsh), it's worth considering one of ScotRail's multi-day Highland Rover tickets.