Scotland Guide
Skye and the Western Isles
Rùm
Like Skye, Rùm ( 
www.isleofrum.com ) is dominated by its Cuillin, which, though only 2663ft at the summit of Askival, rises with comparable drama straight up from the sea. Rùm's chief formal attraction is Kinloch Castle (guided tours most days at around 2pm; £6; www.kinlochcastle.co.uk ), a squat red-sandstone edifice fronted by colonnades and topped by crenellations and turrets, that overshadows the village of Kinloch. The interior is packed with knick-knacks and technical gizmos accumulated by Sir George Bullough (1870–1939), the spendthrift son of self-made millionaire Sir John Bullough. One of Bullough's prize possessions was his orchestrion, an electrically driven barrel organ (originally destined for Balmoral) crammed in under the stairs, that would grind out an eccentric mixture of pre-dinner tunes; a demo is included in the tour.
Two gentle waymarked heritage trails start from Kinloch, both taking around two hours. The island's best beach is at KILMORY, to the north (5hr return), though check with the reserve manager about public access ( 
01687/462026). The hamlet of HARRIS on the southwest coast (6hr return) once housed a large crofting community; all that remains now are several ruined blackhouses and the extravagant BulloughMausoleum, built by Sir George to house the remains of his father, overlooking the sea.
Kinloch Castle lets a few of its (non en-suite) four-poster rooms (Price: ₤71-90), but it's basically run as an independent hostel ( 01687/462037; dorm beds £14), with dormitories in the old servants' quarters. There are also two simple mountain bothies (maximum stay 3 nights), in Dibidil and Guirdil, and basic camping near the old pier – book ahead for both with the White House ( 01687/462026). Wherever you're staying, you can use the hostel kitchen, or eat the unpretentious food offered in the hostel's licensed bistro, which serves full breakfasts, offers packed lunches and charges just under £15 a head for a three-course evening meal. There is also a small shop/off-licence/post office in Kinloch. Bear in mind that Rùm is the wettest of the Small Isles, and is known for having some of the worst midges in Scotland – come prepared for both.