Scotland Guide
Skye and the Western Isles
Muck
Smallest and most southerly of the Small Isles, Muck (
www.isleofmuck.com ; dorm beds £11.50) is low-lying, mostly treeless and extremely fertile, and as such shares more characteristics with the likes of Coll and Tiree than its nearest neighbours. PORT MÓR, the village on the southeast corner of the island, is where visitors arrive. A road, just over a mile in length, connects Port Mór with the island's main farm, Gallanch, which overlooks the rocky seal-strewn skerries on the north side of the island. The nicest sandy beach is Camas na Cairidh, to the east of Gallanach. Despite being only 452ft above sea level, it really is worth climbing Beinn Airein, in the southwest corner of the island, for the 360-degree panoramic view; the return journey from Port Mór takes around two hours.
You can stay with one of the MacEwen family, who have owned the island since 1896, at Port Mór House (
01687/462365; full board Price: ₤71-90); the rooms are pine-clad and enjoy great views, and the food is delicious. Alternatively, you can stay at the island's seven-bed bunkhouse (
01687/462042), a characterful, wood-panelled bothy heated by a Raeburn stove. You can also hire the island yurt (
01687/462362), or camp rough – ask at the craft shop (April– Sept), in Port Mór, which springs into life when day-trippers arrive, and serves evening meals on request. Bring supplies with you, as there is no shop.