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Scotland Guide

Orkney and Shetland

Shetland

    In nearly all respects Shetland is a complete contrast with Orkney. Orkney lies within sight of the Scottish mainland, whereas Shetland lies beyond the horizon. They're a lot closer to Bergen in Norway than to Edinburgh. Shetland endures the most violent weather experienced in the British Isles: in winter, gales are routine and Shetlanders take the occasional hurricane in their stride, marking a calm fine day as "a day atween weathers". There are some good spells of dry, sunny weather from May to September, but it's the "simmer dim", the twilight which lingers through the small hours at this latitude, that makes Shetland summers so memorable.

    The islands' capital, Lerwick, is a busy little port and the only town of any size. Many parts of Shetland can be reached from here on a day-trip. South Mainland is a narrow finger of land that runs some 25 miles from Lerwick to Sumburgh Head, an area particularly rich in archeological remains, including the Iron Age MousaBroch and the ancient settlement of Jarlshof. A further 25 miles south of Sumburgh Head is the remote but thriving Fair Isle, synonymous with knitwear and exceptional birdlife. Even more remote are the distinctive peaks and precipitous cliffs of the island of Foula, 14 miles west of Mainland. Shetland's three North Isles bring Britain to a dramatic, windswept end: Yell has the largest population of otters in Shetland; Fetlar is home to the rare red-necked phalarope; north of Unst, there's nothing until you reach the North Pole.