Scotland Guide
Orkney and Shetland
Reaching up towards the Arctic Circle, and totally exposed to turbulent Atlantic weather systems, the Orkney and Shetland islands gather neatly into two distinct and very different clusters. The seventy or so Orkney Islands lie just a short step north of the Scottish mainland. With the major exception of Hoy, which is high and rugged, these islands are mostly low-lying, gently sloping and richly fertile, and for centuries have provided a reasonably secure living for their inhabitants from farming and, to a much lesser extent, fishing. There's a peaceful continuity to Orcadian life reflected not only in the well-preserved treasury of Stone Age settlements, such as Skara Brae, and standing stones, most notably the Stones of Stenness, but also in the rather conservative nature of society here today.
Sixty miles further north, the Shetland Islands are in nearly all respects a complete contrast. Ice-sculpted sea inlets cut deep into the land that rises straight out of the water to rugged, heather-coated hills. With little fertile ground, Shetlanders have traditionally been crofters rather than farmers, often looking to the sea for an uncertain living in fishing and whaling or the naval and merchant services. The Norse heritage is clear in every road sign and there are many well-preserved prehistoric sites, such as MousaBroch and Jarlshof.
It's impossible to underestimate the influence of the weather up here. More often than not, it will be windy and rainy, though you can have all four seasons in one day. The wind-chill factor is not to be taken lightly, and there's frequently a dampness or drizzle in the air, even when it's not actually raining. Even in late spring and summer, when there can be dry spells and long days with lots of sunshine, you still need to come prepared for wind, rain and, most frustrating of all, the occasional sea fog. The one good thing is that midges are less of a problem, except on Hoy.
Highlights
1 Maes Howe Orkney's, and Europe's, finest Neolithic chambered tomb.
2 Skara Brae Neolithic village giving a fascinating insight into prehistoric life.
3 St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall Beautiful red-stone cathedral built by the Vikings.
4 Balfour Castle Eat, sleep and live like a king in Orkney's most sumptuous castle hotel.
5 Westray Thriving Orkney island with seabird colonies, sandy beaches and a ruined castle.
6 Isle of Noss Guaranteed seals, puffins and dive-bombing "bonxies".
7 Mousa Remote Shetland islet with a two-thousand-year-old broch.
8 Jarlshof Site mingling Iron Age, Bronze Age, Pictish, Viking and medieval settlements.