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Scotland Guide

Northeast Scotland

Elgin

    The lively market town of ELGIN grew up around the River Lossie in the thirteenth century. On North College Street is the lovely ruin of Elgin Cathedral (April– Sept daily 9.30am–5.30pm; Oct– March Mon– Wed, Sat & Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; £4.50; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk , joint ticket with Spynie Palace £6), once considered Scotland's most beautiful cathedral, though it's little more than a shell today. Founded in 1224, the three-towered building stood as the region's highest religious house until 1390 when the inimical Wolf of Badenoch (Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan and illegitimate son of Robert II) burned the place down, along with the rest of the town, in retaliation for having been excommunicated by the bishop of Moray when he left his wife.

    Five miles east of town, the Old Church of Urquhart ( 01343/843063, www.oldkirk.co.uk ; Price: ₤51-60) is the most appealing place to stay in the area, an unusual and comfortable B&B in an imaginatively converted church on Meft Road.