Scotland Guide
Edinburgh
The Old Town
1 Black Bo's 55 Blackfriars St No music and no decent ales, but a good example of how to stay trendy without going minimalist, with church pews and candles alongside original art and DJ decks. Just fifty yards from the Royal Mile, but well off the tourist trail.
2 Bow Bar 80 West Bow Wonderful, award-winning old wood-panelled bar. Choose from among nearly 150 whiskies or a changing selection of first-rate Scottish and English cask beers.
3 Dragonfly 52 West Port Among the hippest of the city's style bars, with chandeliers, faux-regal wallpaper, a display of designer trainers and a wide range of ingenious cocktails.
4 Jolly Judge 7a James Court Atmospheric, low-ceilinged bar in a close just down from the castle. Cosy in winter and pleasant outside in summer.
5 Villager 49–50 George IV Bridge One of the hippest bars in this part of town, so expect the local glitterati and lots of designer clothing lurking in and amongst the chocolate-brown sofas and teetering bar stools.
6 Cabaret Voltaire 36–38 Blair St 
0131/220 6176 
www.thecabaretvoltaire.com A nightclub in the atmospheric setting of the Old Town's underground vaults. The venue plays host to some of city's best clubs such as deep-house favourite Ultragroove and Taste, an evening of frenetic hard-house that has long been a favourite with the city's gay community.
7 The Liquid Room 9c Victoria St 0131/225 2564 www.liquidroom.com One of the best of the larger venues, with nights such as the indie Evol, and Luvely, a popular gay-friendly house night. Also live music from visiting indie and local R&B bands.
8 Royal Oak 1 Infirmary St 0131/557 2976 www.royal-oak-folk.com A traditional pub hosting regular informal folk sessions and the "Wee Folk Club" on Sun.