Scotland Guide
Argyll
The Isle of Staffa
Seven miles off the west coast of Mull, Staffa is the most romantic and dramatic of Scotland's many uninhabited islands. On its south side, the perpendicular rock face features an imposing series of black basalt columns, known as the Colonnade, which have been cut by the sea into cathedralesque caverns, most notably Fingal's Cave. The Vikings knew about the island – the name derives from their word for "Island of Pillars" – but it wasn't until 1772 that it was "discovered" by the world. Turner painted it, Wordsworth explored it, but Mendelssohn's Die Fingalshöhle, inspired by the sounds of the sea-wracked caves he heard on a visit here in 1829, did most to popularize the place – after which Queen Victoria gave her blessing, too. The geological explanation for these polygonal basalt organ-pipes is that they were created by a massive subterranean explosion some sixty million years ago. A huge mass of molten basalt burst forth onto land and, as it cooled, solidified into what are, essentially, crystals. From April to October several operators offer boat trips to Staffa: long-established Turus Mara ( 
0800/085 8786, 
www.turusmara.com ) is a classy outfit, setting out from Ulva Ferry and charging around £45 return, as does Gordon Grant Marine ( 01681/700338, www.staffatours.com ), departing from Fionnphort. If you just want to go to Staffa, try Iolaire ( 01681/700358, www.staffatrips.f9.co.uk ), who charge around £20 for passage from Fionnphort.