Moscow Guide
Zamoskvareche and the south
October Square (Oktyabrskaya ploshchad)
Oktyabrskaya ploshchad (October Square) is an urban showpiece from the Era of Stagnation: ugly blocks of once prestigious accommodation, flanking an arterial junction and the last statue of Lenin to be erected in Moscow (in 1985). Bestriding a plinth embossed with peasants and workers fired by his vision, he is cast as a Titan of world history – now reduced to insignificance by the giant satellite dishes and neon hoardings on Oktyabrskaya's skyline. On November 7, however, thousands rally here to march into the centre, led by brass bands and banners spanning the width of Krymskiy val. Many are old Communists wearing medals, marching and singing Soviet hymns with the precision of a lifetime's rallying. The youthful National Bolsheviks who make up the other contingent can't march at all, but bellow the name of their leader, Limonov, and carry effigies of Bush and international capitalism to burn. But the march is usually peaceful, and there are so many photographers and riot police present that you can watch from the sidelines or join in without drawing attention. It begins about 11am and ends up wherever the Kremlin permits about two hours later.