Moscow Guide
The Beliy Gorod
Moscow Art Theatre (MKhAT)
Kamergerskiy pereulok is one of the most inviting turnings off Tverskaya, blending culture and café society. A statue of Chekhov presages the famous Moscow Art Theatre – known here by its Russian initials as MKhAT (pronounced "Em-Khat") – that was founded in 1898 by Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko. MKhAT pioneered the methodical training of actors and directors, and the doctrine that acting should express inner feelings, rather than merely consist of gestures and vocal tricks. Its foundation coincided with the advent of Chekhov's plays, the first modern drama, which required a new style of acting. Having flopped in St Petersburg when first performed by hammy old thespians, The Seagull became an overnight sensation thanks to MKhAT's production; Chekhov's congratulatory telegram to Stanislavsky read: "You have brought my seagull back to life".
In Soviet times, MKhAT specialized in the plays of Gorky and became increasingly conservative, but nevertheless produced outstanding directors like Meyerhold and brilliant actors such as Inokennty Smoktunovsky, famous for his portrayal of Hamlet in particular. Its playhouse was converted by Fyodor Shekhtel according to Stanislavsky's belief that nothing should distract audiences from the stage. Its foyer and auditorium are extremely simple, and the exterior decorations are limited to a stylized seagull on the pediment and a bas-relief wave above the doorway. Playbills, photos and designs for sets by Roerich, Benois, Serov and Kustodiev are displayed in a museum (Nov– March Wed– Sun noon–6pm; R70).