Poland Guide
Lublin and the east
Stretching from the Wisła River to the Belarusian and Ukrainian borders, the Lublin region is one of agricultural plains punctuated by backwoods villages and sleepy towns. This is historically one of Europe's main grain-producing areas, with local aristocrats amassing huge riches by shipping their produce down the river to the markets of Gdańsk. The palaces of these feudal landowners still dot the countryside, alongside market towns endowed by the magnates with fine public buildings and churches.
The main city of the region is bustling, self-confident Lublin, an economic and intellectual centre that also boasts one of Poland's most magical old towns. The smaller towns, particularly the old trading centres of Kazimierz Dolny and Sandomierz along the Wisła River, are among the country's most beautiful, long favoured by artists and retaining fine historic centres. A cherished weekend retreat of the Warsaw artistic set, Kazimierz in particular is one of the liveliest summertime destinations that Poland has to offer. Over to the east, Zamość has a superb Renaissance centre, miraculously preserved through wars and well worth a detour.
All of these places had significant Jewish populations before World War II. Lublin in particular was one of the most important Jewish centres in Poland, which probably explains why its suburb Majdanek was chosen by the Nazis as the site of one of their most notorious death camps – a chilling place that demands to be visited.
Highlights
1 Lublin Youthful and vibrant city with a wonderfully atmospheric old centre.
2 Majdanek Former Nazi extermination camp, preserved as a stark warning to future generations. Harrowing but necessary.
3 Zamoyski Palace A stunning Baroque palace with lavish interiors, some of which have been given over to a mesmerizing museum of communist-era art and propaganda.
4 Puławy The former estate of the Czartoryski family boasts a relaxing park sprinkled with follies.
5 Kazimierz Dolny The best-preserved medieval town in this part of Poland, long the favoured weekend destination for arty Warsaw folk.
6 Sandomierz Historic Wisła valley trading town with many of its medieval and Renaissance buildings still standing.
7 Zamość Sixteenth-century model town, built as a showcase for Renaissance ideals and with a pronounced Italianate feel.