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Eating

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    1 Al Marsili Via del Castoro 3 0577.47.154 www.ristorantealmarsili.it Elegant, upmarket restaurant serving some exellent meat dishes (including grilled lamb and steak with three-pepper sauce) and a few vegetarian choices (such as grilled vegetables with scamorza cheese). Attentive service. Price: Mains from about €17 Opening time: Closed Mon

    2 Cane e Gatto Via Pagliaresi 6 0577.287.545 Don't be put off by the absence of a menu – this restaurant serves superb if expensive Tuscan cuisine on its seven-course menu degustazione. Price: €50 per person Opening time: Eve only and closed Thurs

    3 Da Divo Via Franciosa 29 0577.286.054. Book a table in the atmospheric subterranean dining room to savour hearty Tuscan food that is generally above average. Price: €50 per person Opening time: Closed Sun in winter

    4 Due Porte Via di Stalloreggi 62 0577.221.887 This place has pizza and a large Tuscan menu, lower prices than you'd expect – pizzas from €3.50 – and an open terrace at the back on which to enjoy them. Price: Mains €5.50–12 Opening time: Closed Mon

    5 La Taverna di Cecco Via Cecco Angiolieri 19 0577.288.518 Attentive service, moderate prices and heavenly rabbit and rocket salad. Good pasta dishes too, including tagliatelle with walnuts and cream. Opening time: Open daily

    6 Le Campane Via delle Campane 6 0577.284.035 High-quality Sienese cuisine at a small, formal restaurant just below the Duomo. Price: €10–13 Opening time: Closed Mon

    7 Author Pick Nello Via del Porrione 28 0577.289.043. Sienese specialities at their best: try red chicory and smoked cheese ravioli in leek sauce, roast rabbit, or beef fillet with rocket and pecorino. Price: €19–23 for two courses Opening time: Closed Sun

    8 Osteria Carroccio Via Casato di Sotto 32 0577.411.65 Popular little osteria offering good Sienese dishes (such as pappardelle with hare and tagliatelle al cinghiale, both €7) and an extensive wine list for reasonable pricesPrice: €18–20 for two courses. The whole package let down by the slightly off-hand service. Opening time: Closed Wed

    9 Osteria Castelvecchio Via di Castelvecchio 65 0577.49.586 First-rate, adventurous and nicely informal osteria with a barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and good choices for vegetarians; menus change daily. Price: €25 for two courses Opening time: Closed Sun

    10 Osteria Le Logge Via del Porrione 33 0577.48.013 The best-looking restaurant in Siena, in an old cabinet-lined pharmacy off the Campo (avoid the less pretty dining room upstairs). Good pasta and some unusual secondi.Price: €50 a head Opening time: Closed Sun

    11 Renzo Piazza Indipendenza 0577.289.296 This friendly spaghetteria offers light, uncomplicated meals at terrace tables on a quiet enclosed piazza off Via di Città. The large menu includes a few pizzas. Opening time: Closed Fri

    12 Tullio ai Tre Cristi Vicolo Provenzano 1 0577.280.608 A Sienese institution since 1830, this is the smart (and rather expensive) restaurant of the Giraffa contrada and is draped with heraldic banners between the frescoes and arches to accompany its traditional food – roast boar, steaks, tripe, plenty of fish and some pastas. Price: seasonal menu €60 Opening time: Closed Wed