Italy Guide
Tuscany
Eating
1 Cagliostro Via del Castelletto 26–30 
050.575.413. Tucked away in an obscure alley parallel to Via San Frediano, alongside the Rinascente hotel, Cagliostro is an extremely good-restaurant-wine bar, offering a small but classy menu of classic Pisan dishes and others with an innovative twist – such as Tuscan leek soup with Stilton. The dining room is spectacular too. Price: €40 per person Opening time: Closed Sun, Mon lunchtime & Tues
2 
Il Campano Via Domenico Cavalca 19 050.580.585. Home-made pasta and gnocchi, and local seafood, are the big things at this first-rate trattoria – though they also do meaty Tuscan classics, including a one-kilo Fiorentina steak (to share, of course). This may also be the only Pisan restaurant with ostrich on the menu. Extremely good selection of wines, too. Price: Closed all Wed & Thurs eve
3 La Cereria Via Pietro Gori 33 050.20.336. Popular, unpretentious restaurant tucked away in a courtyard a short distance south of the river. Excellent seafood and pasta dishes, superb pizzas (the best in the city, some reckon) and a pleasant garden. Opening time: Closed Tues
4 La Mescita Via Domenico Cavalca 2 050.544.294. This wine bar-restaurant, located on the edge of the Piazza Vettovaglie market, has established a good reputation with its ever-changing Tuscan menu and excellent cellar. Price: €35 per person Opening time: Closed Sat & Sun eve, Mon & three weeks in Aug
5 Osteria dei Cavalieri Via San Frediano 16 050.580.858. Outstanding quality, good prices Price: about €30 per person and a nice atmosphere. The fish is exquisite, Tuscan meat and game dishes are expertly prepared, and their vegetarian options are excellent. Opening time: Closed Sat lunch & Sun, and most of Aug
6 San Omobono Piazza San Omobono 6 050.540.847. This city-centre trattoria serves terrific authentic Pisan home cooking, featuring dishes such as brachette alla renaiaola – pasta in a purée of greens and smoked fish. Opening time: Closed Sun & two weeks in Aug