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Italy Guide

Sicily

The Aeolian Islands

    Volcanic in origin, the Aeolian Islands are named after Aeolus, the Greek god who kept the winds he controlled shut tight in one of the islands' many caves. According to Homer, Odysseus put into the Aeolians and was given a bag of wind to help him home, but his sailors opened it too soon and the ship was blown straight back to port. Their strategic importance attracted the Greeks, who settled on Lípari in 580 BC, but they later became a haven for pirates and a place of exile, a state of affairs that continued right into the twentieth century.

    The twentieth century saw mass emigration, and even now islands such as Panarea and Alicudi have just a hundred or so year-round inhabitants. It's only recently that the islanders stopped scratching a subsistence living and started welcoming tourists, so you won't be alone if you come during the summer months, when the population of the islands leaps from 10,000 to 200,000. Every island is expensive, with prices in shops as well as restaurants reflecting the fact that most food is imported. But get out to the minor isles or come in blustery winter for a taste of what life was like on the islands twenty – or a hundred – years ago: unsophisticated, rough and beautiful.

    Arrival

    Sailings from Milazzo operate daily and are frequent enough to make it unnecessary to book except in the high season (unless you're taking a car), although bear in mind that there is a severely reduced service between October and May – and that even moderately rough weather can disrupt the schedules. The shipping agencies are down by the harbour and open usual working hours in summer and just before departures in the low season – Siremar (Via dei Mille 19 090.928.3242, www.siremar.it ) for ferries and hydrofoils, Ústica Lines (Via dei Mille 32 090.928.7821, www.usticalines.it ) for hydrofoils only, and NGI (Via dei Mille 26 090.928.3415) for ferries only. Hydrofoils are more frequent and twice as quick, but almost twice the price of the ferries. The islands can also be reached from Palermo, Naples, Cefalù, Messina and Reggio di Calabria.

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