Italy Guide
Sicily
The Cattedrale
Opening time: daily 9.30am–5.30pm
Opening time: free
Spanning Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the early sixteenth-century Porta Nuova commemorates Charles V's Tunisian exploits, with grim, turbaned prisoners adorning the western entrance. This gate marked the extent of the late medieval city, and the long road beyond heads to Monreale.
The Corso runs back towards the centre, past the huge bulk of the Norman Cattedrale. The triple-apsed eastern end and graceful matching towers date from 1185, and despite the Catalan-Gothic facade and arches, there's enough Norman carving and detail to rescue the exterior from mere curiosity value. The same is not true, however, of the sterile Neoclassical interior. The only items of interest are the fine fifeenth-century portal and wooden doors and royal tombs, containing the remains of Sicilian monarchs – including Frederick II and his wife, Constance of Aragon. There's also a treasury (€2.50) to the right of the choir, the highlights of which are a jewel- and pearl-encrusted skullcap and three simple, precious rings, all enterprisingly removed from the tomb of Constance in the eighteenth century.