Italy Guide
Sicily
La Kalsa district
This southeastern quarter of old Palermo was worst hit during the war, but, after years of decay, it's sloughing off its desolate image, as the numerous cranes and tiers of scaffolding testify. It's here that you'll find some of Palermo's most remarkable buildings and churches, as well as its only central park, Villa Giulia, just a few minutes' walk along Via Lincoln from the train station and home to an extensive botanical garden (Mon– Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–1.30pm; €4).
Head back up Via Lincoln, turn right down palazzo-lined Via Garibaldi, then turn right down Via Magione to the church of La Magione (daily 9.30am–6.30pm; free), approached through a palm-lined drive. Built in 1151, the simple, sparse Norman church has beautiful cloisters (undergoing a lengthy restoration) and a chapel, a rare plaster preparation of a crucifixion fresco and a lovely small Arab-Norman column carved with a Koranic inscription. The church marks the edge of La Kalsa (its name is from the Arabic khalisa, meaning "pure"), an area subjected to saturation bombing during World War II, because of its proximity to the port. The worst of the bombsite is now greened over and a popular spot for football practice. Across the square, set back off Via Spasimo, is the complex of Santa Maria dello Spasimo (daily 8am– midnight; free), a former church, now roofless except for its Gothic apse, that holds atmospheric night-time jazz concerts. It is also one of the venues for the annual KalsArt festival ( 
www.kalsart.it ; mid-June to mid-Sept), a huge cultural extravaganza of live music, theatre and cinema that takes place at a number of venues around this part of town.