Italy Guide
Sardinia
The Costa Smeralda
Long a magnet for Italy's glitziest celebrities, the five-star development of the Costa Smeralda, built in the 1960s, helped to transform the economy of the entire island. A coastline this beautiful inevitably comes at a price, however: budget accommodation is virtually non-existent, and the high-end hotels that cram this corner of the island are disappointingly soulless. Arzachena or Cannigione are both cheaper bases from which to explore the area.
The Costa Smeralda begins about 12km north of Olbia and is is defined as the ten-kilometre strip between the gulfs of Cugnana and Arzachena. Although strict rules were imposed to prevent overzealous development – you won't see any multistorey hotels, advertising hoardings or fast-food restaurants – the Costa lacks any genuine fishing villages and the luxurious holiday villages have a bland, almost suburban feel. This hasn't stopped the mega-rich from coming in droves – Silvio Berlusconi owns six properties here.
You can judge for yourself by taking a look at the "capital" of the Costa Smeralda, PORTO CERVO, connected to Olbia and Arzachena by ARST buses (3–7 daily Mon– Sat). The "local"-style rustic-red architecture here embodies the dream of an idyllic Mediterranean village without any of the irritations of real life. Graffiti- and litter-free, Porto Cervo exults in its exclusivity, with a glittering yachting marina as its centrepiece.
You'll need your own transport to reach the sandy beaches dotted down the coast south of Porto Cervo. None is clearly marked; just follow any dirt track down to the sea – the rougher it is, the more promising. Try Cappriccioli and Liscia Ruia, 6km south of Porto Cervo and near the Costa Smeralda's most exclusive hotel, the Cala di Volpe ( 
0789.976.111, 
www.starwoodhotels.com ; Price: €301 and over) – but free to all.