Italy Guide
Piemonte and Valle d'Aosta
Cafés
1 Al Bicerin Piazza della Consolata 5. This tiny, beautiful café is the place to try a bicerin – a Piemontese speciality of coffee fortified with brandy, cream and chocolate. Opening time: Closed Wed & Aug
2 Baratti & Milano Piazza Castello 29. Established in 1873 and preserving its nineteenth-century interior of mirrors, chandeliers and carved wood, where genteel Torinese ladies sip teas. Great hot chocolate. Opening time: Closed Mon
3 Fiorio Via Po 8 Turin's most historic café, once patronized by Nietzsche, presumably for its legendary gelato and its signature cappuccino Opening time: Closed Mon
4 Mood Via Battisti 3 Books, coffee and aperitifs in the cosy Turin tradition. Not part of Turin history, like the others, but very attractive Opening time: Closed Sun
5 Mulassano Piazza Castello 9 This inviting café first opened in 1900; it has marble fittings and a striking ceiling. Traditionally the favoured spot of actors and singers from the nearby Teatro Regio.
6 Neuv Caval'd Brôns Piazza San Carlo 155. A Torinese institution, this gustatory palace is known for its impressive help-yourself canapé selection Opening time: Closed Sat lunch & Sun
7 Pepino Piazza Carignano 8 Ritzy café with summer garden, famed for its ice creams. Try the violet-flavoured pinguino or the outrageously rich cream-and-chocolate concoction of pezzo duro. Also offers an excellent Sun brunch buffet menu for about €15. Closed Mon.
8 Platti Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 72 Art Nouveau-furnished café dating from 1870; hosts art exhibitions and occasional live music. Good place for lunch, open daily.
9 
San Carlo Piazza San Carlo 156. Heroes of the Risorgimento once met in this café/restaurant/ice-cream parlour, now rather grandiosely restored with gilt pilasters and an immense chandelier.
10 Torino Piazza San Carlo 204 A good place for a leisurely aperitif or cocktail, of which the most popular is the Torinese "Elvira", made with Martini, vodka and various secret ingredients. Illustrious regulars have included writer Cesare Pavese and Luigi Einaudi (a Torinese economist who became the second President of the Italian Republic).