Italy Guide
Lombardy and the lakes
The Navigli
Milan's canal – or Navigli – neighbourhood, once a bustling industrial area is these days a focus for the city's nightlife. Much lauded by tourist brochures, the area is scruffy and often disappointing in the harsh light of day. The best time to visit is in the evening when the quarter's many restaurants and bars come alive, although the monthly Sunday antiques street-market (closed July & Aug) also brings a vivacious focus to the waterways.
South from the Darsena, the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese, respectively the first and last of the city's canals to be completed, lead into the plains of Lombardy. Some of the warehouses and traditional tenement blocks, or case ringhere, have been refurbished and become prime real estate but you'll still find plenty of unreconstructed corners. Craftsmen and artists have moved in and although the overpriced craft and antique shops won't hold your attention for long, a wander round the streets, popping into open courtyards, will give you a feel of the neighbourhood.