Italy Guide
Liguria
Portovénere
The ancient, narrow-laned village of PORTOVÉNERE sits astride a spit of land on the very tip of the southwestern arm of the bay, blessed with breathtaking views, a memorably tranquil atmosphere and a string of three islets just offshore, each smaller and rockier than the last. The bus ride from La Spezia gives fine views of the bay and the islands, though the views are just as good – and the journey more fun – on the boats that depart around seven times a day in season.
Portovénere's characteristic rose- and yellow-painted tower-houses, aligned to form a defensive wall, are now transformed into a trendy waterside strip known as the Palazzata, which continues to the end of the promontory and the thirteenth-century church of San Pietro. The church sits over the ruins of a Roman temple to Venus, goddess of love (hence the town's name). One of the rocky coves around the base of the church is the Grotto Arpaia, a favoured spot of Lord Byron who swam across the bay from here to visit Shelley at San Terenzo. To this day, the gulf has the nickname of the "Baía di Byron", but swimming is discouraged in favour of the boats that shuttle regularly to and from Lérici.