Italy Guide
Campania
Restaurants and pizzerias
1 Al Faretto Via Marechiaro 127, Posillipo
081.575.0407 Very atmospheric, romantic and smart restaurant, yet great value. Exceptionally fresh fish prepared and served with great style. Price: €30 per person Opening time: Closed Mon
2 Antica Osteria Pisano Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi 1–4
081.554.8325 Small and very traditional trattoria with a well-priced menu of well-loved local standards – a few pasta dishes, mainly with fish and seafood, and a short menu of meat mains Price: €5–8. Opening time: Closed Sun & Aug
3
Bellini Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli 80
081.459.774 Rife with old-world charm, this historic establishment has a convivial outside terrace screened by foliage, and several spacious inside dining rooms. Locals come for the house speciality, linguine al cartoccio (pasta with seafood baked in paper), but pizzas and other local dishes are always good Opening time: Closed Sun eve.
4 Bersagliera Borgo Marinaro 10–11
081.764.6016 Fine food, especially seafood, though inevitably you pay for the location, slap next to the Castel dell'Ovo, and for the "O Sole Mio" minstrels who wander between the tables outside. The house special is tagliatelle alla bersagliera, with squid, shrimp, clams and mussels, and cherry tomatoes. Opening time: Closed Tues
5 Da Ettore Via Santa Lucia 56
081.764.0498 In the heart of Santa Lucia, this casual and lively neighbourhood restaurant is famous for its pagnotielli (calzoni stuffed with mozzarella, ham and mushrooms), and there is a wide selection of pizza and traditional pasta dishes too. Opening time: Closed Sun
6 Da Michele Via Cesare Sersale 1–3
081.553.9204 Tucked away off Corso Umberto I in the Forcella district, this is the most determinedly traditional of all the Naples pizzerias, offering just two varieties (allegedly the only two worth eating) – marinara and margherita – for about €3. Don't arrive late, as they sometimes run out of dough. Opening time: Closed Sun
7 Da Pasqualino Piazza Sannazzaro 79
081.681.524 In the business of serving local fish dishes since 1898, this old-school Mergellina ristorante-pizzeria does great and affordable seafood and pizzas, and has outside seating in the summer. Opening time: Closed Tues
8
Di Matteo Via dei Tribunali 94
081.294.203 One of the best and most famous pizzerias in the city, a bit low on atmosphere, but the enormous and mouthwatering pizzas more than make up for it – after all, when Bill Clinton was in town, this is where he came to sample proper Neapolitan pizza. Opening time: Closed Sun
9 Donna Teresa Via Kerbaker 58
081.556.7070 One of the few vestiges of simple dining left in Vómero, where the food and setting are simple and the prices honest. Price: €12–15 Opening time: Closed Sun.
10 Gorizia Via Bernini 29
081.578.2248 This unpretentious Vómero restaurant is close to the Centrale and Chiaia funicular and does some of Vómero's best pizza, as well as a decent full menu. Opening time: Closed Mon
11
La Cantina di Via Sapienza Via Sapienza 40–41
081.459.078 Proprietor Gaetano's no-nonsense food and service draws a busy lunch crowd to feast on hearty home-cooked classics like polpette fritte (fried meatballs) for €5 and a staggering array of seasonal vegetable side dishes. Price: Full meals for €10–12 Opening time: Closed dinner & Sun
12 Lombardi a Santa Chiara Via B. Croce 59
081.552.0780 Located on Spaccanapoli near the church of Santa Chiara, this well-respected ristorante-pizzeria is known for its pizzas, though there is a moderately priced menu of typical Neapolitan dishes on offer as well. Opening time: Closed Mon
13 Marino Via S Lucia 118
081.764.0280 A warm and welcoming family-style place in Santa Lucia with good pizzas and reliable Neapolitan dishes like scialatielli with aubergine, tomato and mozzarella for €6. Opening time: Closed Mon
14
Mimi' alla Ferrovia Via Via A d'Aragona 21
081.570.6883 A real old-fashioned bustling restaurant and something of a haven in the none-too-desirable streets off Piazza Garibaldi, with good traditional Neapolitan food at reasonable prices – pasta dishes for €6. Price: mains from €10 Opening time: Closed Sun & two weeks in Aug
15 Umberto Via Alabardieri 30–31
081.418.555 A long-time popular choice among the professional classes of the Chiaia district, serving marvellous food in somewhat old-fashioned surroundings. Choose between a simple pizzeria and more upmarket restaurant. Opening time: Closed Mon