Italy Guide
Basilicata and Calabria
Montescaglioso
Twenty kilometres southeast of Matera and served by buses from the town, the hilltop village of MONTESCAGLIOSO was once a Greek settlement and is now the site of a magnificent eleventh-century Benedictine abbey of San Michele (daily 10am–1pm & 3–5pm; €4 includes guided tour; closed Mon afternoon). The abbey has been recently restored and commands good views over the Bradano Valley. You could easily spend a few hours here exploring the town's winding back streets. For food, head to Caveosus on Via Chiesa Maggiore 1 ( 
0835.201.912; closed Tues) where a delicious home-cooked meal will cost around €15. To stay, L'Orto di Lucania on SP175, 3km west of Montescaglioso ( 0835.202.195, 
www.ortodilucania.it ; Price: €51-75) is an agriturismo with a wonderful restaurant (booking essential). The rooms and apartments are well kitted out and there's a pool and lovely grounds with fruit trees.