Italy Guide
Basilicata and Calabria
More than any other regions of the Italian South, Basilicata and Calabria represent the quintessence of the mezzogiorno, the southern regions of Italy that are traditionally poor. After Unification in 1861, the area was largely neglected and sank into abject poverty that was worsened by emigration. Things have improved, particularly in Basilicata, although tourism is yet to bring the riches found to the north in Puglia and Campania.
In Basilicata, the greatest draw is Matera, whose distinctive Sassi – cavelike dwellings in the heart of the town – give it a uniquely dramatic setting. In the northern part of the region, near the uninspiring city of Potenza, Melfi and Venosa are bastions of medieval charm with important relics from the Byzantine and Norman eras. Of the region's two coasts, it is the Tyrrhenian that is most engaging, with spots like Maratea offering crystal clear water, a bustling harbour, and opportunities to discover remote sea grottoes. The Ionian coast, on the other hand, is less charming, though worth a visit for its ancient sites in Metaponto and Policoro – ruins of the once mighty states that comprised Magna Graecia.
While conditions in Basilicata have improved, Calabria remains arguably more marginalized than it was before Unification. Although unchecked development financed by the local ‘Ndrangheta mafira has marred parts of the coastline, resorts such as Scilla, Tropea and Capo Vaticano are still charming, and have become favourite hideaway resorts for discerning Italian and foreign visitors. The interior parts of the region are dominated by the mountain grandeur of the Sila and Aspromonte ranges, each offering excellent hiking and rustic local cuisine.
Highlights
1 Matera Sliced by a ravine containing thousands of Sassi – cave dwellings gouged out of rock – Matera's unique landscape never ceases to astonish.
2 Cripta del Peccato Originale, Contrada Petrapenta The best example of the region's distinctive rock-hewn churches with vibrant eighth-century frescoes inside.
3 Tropea promontory This region has it all – white sandy beaches, turquoise water, hills tumbling down to the coast and – in Tropea town and Pizzo – two of the most beautiful old centres in Calabria.
4 Bronzi di Riace Two extraordinary seven-foot-high, bronze statues of Greek athletes housed in Reggio's Museo Nazionale.
5 Purple Codex, Rossano An illustrated manuscript from the sixth century with early depictions of the life of Christ.
6 Capo Colonna A solitary Doric column marks the spot of what was the most important Greek temple on the Ionian coast.
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