Italy Guide
Abruzzo and Molise
Saepinum
Opening time: daily 8am–7pm
Price: free
SAEPINUM is a beautifully preserved Roman town south of Campobasso. The main reason it has survived so well is that it was never very important: nothing much happened here, and after the fall of the Roman Empire it carried on as the sleepy backwater it had always been – until the ninth century when it was sacked by Saracens. Over the centuries its inhabitants added only a handful of farms and cottages, incorporating the odd Roman column, and eventually moved south to the more secure hilltop site of present-day Sepino. Some have now moved back and rebuilt the farms and cottages on Saepinum's peripheries, contributing if anything to the site's appeal. Their sheep graze below an ancient mausoleum, chickens scratch around the walls, and the only sounds are the tinkling of cowbells.There is a small museum with artefacts and artwork recovered during excavation (Tues– Sun: April– Oct 9.30am–1.30pm & 3–5.30pm; Nov– March 9am–1.30pm & 3–5pm; €2).
Saepinum is accessible by bus from Campobasso – either catch one of the three services that stop at Altilia (right outside the site; no buses Sun) or take the more frequent bus to Sepino (12 daily except Sun; 
www.lariverabus.it for schedules) and walk the remaining 3km to Saepinum. Buses return to Campobasso from the archeological site (enquire at ticket office for times). By road, look for signs to Sepino.