Italy Guide
Abruzzo and Molise
Abruzzo and Molise, one region until 1963 known simply as the Abruzzi, together make Italy's transition from north to south. Here you'll find some of Italy's wildest mountain terrain as well as a few resorts along the Adriatic coastline. In Abruzzo the most visited towns are L'Aquila, at the foot of Gran Sasso – the Apennines' highest peak – and Sulmona to the southeast; both cities are good bases. South of Sulmona, Abruzzo feels more traditional. In Scanno elderly women wear costumes that originated in Asia Minor, and make intricate lace on cylindrical cushions known as tomboli. The main resort on the Abruzzo coast is Pescara, departure port for ferries to Croatia and a good base for excursions inland to Chieti, home to an excellent archeological museum. However the best spot for a sun-and-sand break is further south at Vasto, with its gently shelving sandy beach and lively old centre.
Gentler, less rugged and somewhat poorer than Abruzzo, Molise has more in common with southern than central Italy. Much of the region still seems to be struggling out of its past, its towns and villages victims of either economic neglect. The cities, Isernia and Campobasso, are large and bland, with small historical centres but Molise has its compensations: a scattering of low-key Roman ruins – most interestingly at Saepinum, a quintessential Roman provincial town. There's also the sheer physical aspect of the place. Forty percent of Molise is covered by mountains, and although they are less dramatic than Abruzzo's, there are masses of possibilities for hiking. Visitors are also starting to explore the area's ancient sheep-droving routes, known as tratturi, which are gaining new life as mountain-bike or horseback-riding trails, served by occasional farmhouse guesthouses and riding stables along the way.
Highlights
1 Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo Get back to nature in this lovely park, which has around one hundred indigenous species of fauna and flora.
2 Museo delle Genti d'Abruzzo, Pescara Poetry and intricately carved objects bear witness to the industry of Abruzzo's shepherds.
3 Saepinum This enchanting archeological site in rural Sepino is a throwback to the original Grand Tour, with overgrown Roman ruins dotted with inhabited dwellings.