TRAVEL


World  /  Europe  /  Ireland  /  Tyrone and Fermanagh  /  The Sperrins

Ireland Guide

Tyrone and Fermanagh

The Sperrins

    The impressive, undulating Sperrin Mountains form the northeastern limits of County Tyrone. Wild, empty and beautiful, they reach 2240ft at their highest point, yet the smooth and gradually curving slopes give them a deceptively low appearance. The covering of bog and heather adds to this effect, suggesting nothing more than high, open moorland. For all this, views from the summits are panoramic, and the evenness of texture can make these mountains sumptuous when bathed in evening light. Once in the mountains, it's impossible not to catch sight of the wildlife. Sparrowhawks and kestrels hover above, and you might see buzzards or the far more rare hen harrier, attracted by a rich range of prey in a landscape mostly undisturbed by development – the mountains teem with assorted rodents, including even the rare Irish hare. Over the years there's been many a tale about the discovery of "gold in them there hills" and you might encounter the occasional panner testing the story's veracity.

    Much depopulated over the years, the local sheep-farming community is now sparsely scattered across the region; there are few facilities such as shops or pubs and little accommodation (except in Gortin – see below), so planning ahead is essential if you're intending to walk in the mountains. The Central Sperrins are tricky to reach without your own transport, otherwise you'll be dependent on the Monday-to-Saturday Sperrin Rambler bus.

    Practicalities

    The forty-mile-wide range of the Sperrin Mountains offers good long-distance walking, without necessarily involving steep inclines. You can ramble wherever you like, but remember that – despite appearances – these are high mountains, and changeable weather makes them potentially dangerous. A map and compass are essential for serious walking.

    For those not equipped for the high ground, the Glenelly and Owenkillen river valleys run through the heart of this fine countryside from Plumbridge and Gortin, respectively, and are particularly enjoyable for cyclists who should pick up a copy of the Sperrins cycling guide from tourist offices (also downloadable from www.sperrintourism.com ). The Central Sperrins Way (map available from most tourist offices) is a 25-mile waymarked trail, which begins and ends at Barnes Gap, halfway between Plumbridge and Cranagh. The two-day walk takes in a variety of countryside with spectacular views of the mountains, moorland and Glenelly Valley. The exposed moorland can often be very wet and boggy underfoot, and, as there is no accommodation en route, taking a tent is essential.

    The Sperrins Walking Festival ( 028/8634 7700, www.sperrinstourism.com ) is held over the first weekend in August and involves various guided daily walks, graded according to difficulty.