Ireland Guide
Kerry
The Skellig Islands
A voyage to the Skellig Islands (Na Scealga, "the crags"), rising sharply from the sea 10km off the tip of the Iveragh Peninsula, is one of the most exciting and inspiring trips you can make in Ireland. On top of the larger of these two inhospitable, shark's-tooth islands, Skellig Michael (or Great Skellig), a monastery was somehow constructed in the late seventh or early eighth century, in imitation of the desert communities of the early Church fathers. The exposed, often choppy boat-ride out, followed by Manx shearwaters, storm petrels and puffins from Puffin Island, a nature reserve at the edge of St Finan's Bay, only adds to the sense of wild isolation. Little Skellig is a nature reserve too, crawling with over fifty thousand gannets and now officially full (the excess moved to the Saltees off County Wexford); landing is forbidden here, but the boatmen will come in close so you can watch the gannets diving for fish and hear their awesome din.
If you come between early spring and August, you'll have thousands of cute breeding puffins to keep you company on the 200-metre ascent from Skellig Michael's quay. The compact, remarkably well preserved monastery in the lee of the summit is a miracle of ingenuity and devotion. It was built entirely on artificial terraces, facing south– southeast for maximum sunlight, with sturdy outer walls to deflect the winds and to protect the vegetable patch made of bird droppings; channels crisscross the settlement to funnel rainwater into cisterns. You can walk into the dry-stone, beehive huts, chapels and refectory, which would have sheltered a total of twelve to fifteen monks at any one time and have withstood the worst the Atlantic can throw at them for 1300 years. The high cross beside the large oratory probably marks the burial of the founder, reputed to have been St Fionán, or an early saint – engaging guides, employed by the Office of Public Works, are on hand to give further background information.
Practicalities
Small boats run out to the Skelligs between May and September but depend on the weather being good enough for the crossing. They need to be booked the previous day at the latest – only a dozen operators are allowed to land on the island, and there's often a delay of several days before the boats will sail because of bad weather – and you're advised to phone the boatman about conditions on the morning of your trip. The trip is only for those with good mobility, as there's a vertical ladder up onto the quay, and then 650 steps to the summit; the alternative is a cruise around the islands from the Skellig Heritage Centre. Bring walking shoes, warm waterproof clothes, water and food as there are no facilities on Skellig Michael (toilets are on the boats).
Costing €35–40 per person, the boats operate from several points around the coast. Operators include: Sean Feehan from Ballinskelligs (the shortest crossing to Skellig Michael at around 45min; 
066/947 9182 or 086 417 6612); John O'Shea from Caherdaniel ( 087 689 8431); Seán Murphy (Sea Quest; 066/947 6214 or 087 236 2344, 
www.skelligsrock.com ), who sails from Knightstown, via Reenard Point and Portmagee; and from Portmagee, Michael O'Sullivan (Waterville Boats; 066/947 4855), who will pick up in Waterville; the Caseys ( 066/947 2437 or 087 239 5470, www.skelligislands.com ), who will pick up in Cahersiveen; and Des Lavelle ( 066/947 6124). Boats depart between 10 and 11am and should allow you at least two hours on the island.