Ireland Guide
Kerry
Killarney National Park
Killarney National Park now protects the glaciated limestone valleys around the three lakes, Leane (or Lower), Muckross (or Middle) and Upper. The lakeshores are covered with virgin forest that features oak and such Mediterranean plants as the arbutus, or strawberry tree – so termed because of its red, but non-edible, fruit. Among the park's notable mammals are red deer, otter, pine marten, red squirrels and Irish hare, while its 140 bird species include the peregrine falcon and the hen harrier. Running roughly parallel to the park's western border is the dramatic glacial breach known as the Gap of Dunloe. The National ParkVisitor Centre (mid-March to Sept daily 9am–6pm; free) at Muckross House provides information about all aspects of the park, including a twenty-minute audiovisual on the landscape, flora and fauna, and there's an information point (July to mid-Sept daily 9.30am–6.30pm) at Torc Waterfall. The Ordnance Survey of Ireland produces a detailed, 1:25,000 map of the national park.
Practicalities
There's all manner of tours and transport available, including boats at Ross Castle and Muckross House, and rented bikes. Two-hour guided walks through the park set off from O'Sullivan's Bike Shop opposite St Mary's Cathedral every morning at 11am (€9; 
064/33471 or 087 639 4362, 
www.killarneyguidedwalks.com ). On bank- holiday weekends, the local Chamber of Tourism and Commerce organizes guided walking programmes, comprising a varied selection of full-day (€10) and shorter (free) walks – go to www.killarney.ie or phone 1850 566466 or 064/37928 for information and bookings. Jaunting cars (pony traps) tout for business at several locations, including Kenmare Place in town, Muckross House and Kate Kearney's Cottage (for the Gap of Dunloe). They generally charge around €20 per person, but it's worth haggling with the "jarveys" – as the drivers are known – depending on how many are in your group and how far you want to go. Reputable jarveys, recommended by the tourist office, include Paul and Michael Tangney, usually to be found at Kenmare Place ( 064/33358 or 087 253 2770).
Several tour operators, including Dero's, Main Street ( 064/31251, www.derostours.com ), O'Donoghue Brothers, Old Weir Lodge, Muckross Road ( 064/31068, www.killarneydaytour.com ), and Gap of Dunloe Tours, O'Connors Pub, 7 High St ( 064/30200, www.gapofdunloetours.com ), offer full-day combination tours, which take you by bus to the starting point of Kate Kearney's Cottage, from where you walk or ride a jaunting car or pony through the Gap; then after a lunch stop at Lord Brandon's Cottage you take a boat ride through the three lakes to Ross Castle, and finally a bus brings you back into town (€27 per person, €47 with jaunting car, €62 with pony-trekking). Simpler bike-on-boat tours (you cycle through the Gap of Dunloe and sling your bike on a boat between Lord Brandon's Cottage and Ross Castle) can be arranged through the hostels, or Gap of Dunloe Tours, who also run a bus to Muckross House and back once a day.