Ireland Guide
Galway and Mayo
Inishmore
One of the great attractions of Inishmore (Inis Mór, "Big Island", but often referred to simply as Árainn) is its topography, stark, simple and easily appreciated. Sheer cliffs run the fourteen-kilometre length of its south coast, lashed at their base by the relentless Atlantic, while their tops offer an ethereal panorama, the echoing wall of the Cliffs of Moher to the southeast, and to the north across Galway Bay, the Connemara Mountains, tinged with green, purple and gold.
Signposted to the south of Kilmurvey, Dun Aengus (daily: March– Oct 10am–6pm; Nov– Feb 10am–4pm; €2.10; Heritage Card; 
www.heritageireland.ie ) is by far the Aran Islands' most compelling prehistoric site, a semicircular fort of three concentric enclosures, hard up against the edge of sheer, ninety-metre sea cliffs. The fort is named after Aengus of the Fir Bolg, a legendary ancient race, who were said to have been of Greek origin and to have ruled Ireland for 37 years, before being conquered by the equally mythical Tuatha Dé Danann.
Practicalities
Ferries sail from Rossaveel (Rós an Mhíl; 40km west of Galway city on the Connemara coast) and Doolin in County Clare to the Aran Islands, while flights operate from Connemara Regional Airport at Inverin (Indreabhán), around 30km west of the city. Note that schedules may fluctuate according to season and demand. There are coach connections from Galway to Rossaveel and Inverin airport for most departures (€3–4 one way, €6 return).
Flights
Aer Árann Inverin 
091/593034 www.aerarannislands.ie Price: All flights take 10min and cost €23 single, €45 return Flies to all three islands (2 daily to Inishmore, 3 daily to Inishmaan and Inisheer in winter, up to hourly at the height of summer).
Ferries from Rossaveel
Aran Direct Ferries Opposite the Galway tourist office on Forster Street and in Port Internet café on Victoria Place 091/566535 www.arandirect.com Price: All destinations cost €25 return, €12.50 single Boats to Inishmore (2–3 daily, with extra sailings June– Aug; 35min) and Inisheer (2 daily; 1hr); the Inisheer boat calls at Inishmaan (50min from Rossaveel) on both outward and return journeys. This company may also run island-hopping boats between the three islands in high summer.
Aran Island Ferries Branches in the Galway tourist office, outside on Forster Street and on Merchants Road 091/568903, evenings 091/572273 www.aranislandferries.com Price: All destinations cost €25 return, €13 singleBoats to Inishmore (2–3 daily, with extra sailings June– Aug; 35min) and Inisheer (2 daily; 1hr); the Inisheer boat calls at Inishmaan (50min from Rossaveel) on both outward and return journeys.
Ferries from Doolin
Aran Islands Fast Ferries Doolin Pier 065/707 4550 or 086 881 9052 www.aranislandsfastferries.com Price: Prices range up to €25 one way, €40 returnOperates April– early Sept to Inisheer (up to every 90min in peak season; 25min) and Inishmore (2–4 daily; 1hr); calls at Inishmaan if there's enough demand.
Cliffs of Moher Cruises (the Jack B) Doolin Pier 065/707 5949 or 087 245 3239 www.cliffs-of-moher-cruises.com Price: €15 one way, €30 return Operates April– Oct once or twice daily to Inisheer (30min).
Doolin Ferries Doolin Pier 065/707 4455, 707 4466 or 707 4189 www.doolinferries.com Price: Prices range up to €20 one way, €40 return. Operates April to Sept or Oct to Inisheer (at least 3 daily; 25min) and to Inishmore (2 daily; duration depends on number of stops on the way), sometimes calling at Inishmaan.
Out of a dozen or so B&Bs in Kilronan, Seacrest ( 099/61292; Price: €60-90) is a good bet in the centre, with smart en-suite rooms, a spacious living room and hearty breakfasts. The friendly and richly decorated Pier House (Teach na Ceibe; 099/61417, www.pierhousearan.com ; closed Nov to mid-March; Price: €90-120) occupies a peerless spot by the jetty with panoramic views. On the southwest side of Kilronan now stands a smart, modern hotel, Óstan Árann ( 099/61104, www.aranislandshotel.com ; Price: €150-200), tastefully fitted with pine floors and bare stone walls, and with fine views of the bay and Internet access. Two kilometres southeast of Kilronan in the village of Killeany (Cill Éinne), Tigh Fitz ( 099/61213, www.tighfitz.com ; closed most of Dec; Price: €90-120) is a congenial pub offering cosy and well-equipped en-suite rooms. On a rise at the east end of Killeany is Ard Einne ( 099/61126, www.ardeinne.com ; closed Nov– Jan; dinner available; Price: €90-120, midweek deals available), a welcoming and well-run spot, with fine views from all its rooms, which are en suite and cheerfully done out in pine and floral prints.