Ireland Guide
Down and Armagh
Portaferry
Portaferry, at the mouth of the lough, is the home of the Exploris aquarium (April– Aug Mon– Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 11am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm; Sept– March Mon– Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 11am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; £6.90; 
www.exploris.org.uk ; Heritage Island), which has a touch-tank for the brave to stroke a stingray, and an open-sea tank where you can view the odd roaming shark and basking seals. However, the town's main attraction is the marvellous sunset looking across the "Narrows" to Strangford, a view enhanced by a ten-minute climb to the stump of the old windmill just behind the town.
Practicalities
Ferries leave every half-hour for the five-minute ride across the lips of the lough to Strangford (Mon– Fri 7.45am–10.45pm, Sat 8.15am–11.15pm, Sun 9.45am–10.45pm; 
028/4488 1637; £1.10 single, £1.80 return; car £5.30 single, £8.50 return). The tourist office is in The Stables, Castle Street (Easter– ept Mon– Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–6pm; 028/4272 9882), next to the ruined tower house. Should you be looking for somewhere to stay, you will find the Portaferry Hotel, 10 The Strand ( 028/4272 8231, www.portaferryhotel.com ; Price: €120-150), is relatively luxurious and has a popular restaurant specializing in fish meals; or try the brilliantly designed 
The Narrows, 8 Shore Rd ( 028/4272 8148, www.narrows.co.uk ; Price: €120-150), where every room has a stupendous view across the lough. There's great food here too and all manner of special craft and activity weekends on offer. For good-value B&B try Adair's, 22 The Square ( 028/4272 8412; Price: Under €60), or the Fiddlers Green pub, 10–14 Church St ( 028/4272 8383, www.fiddlersgreenportaferry.com ; Price: €60-90). Bear in mind that accommodation may be hard to find during the Castle Ward opera season in June. Portaferry also has a budget self-catering option in Barholm, 11 The Strand ( 028/4272 9598, www.barholmportaferry.co.uk ; singles £15, doubles Price: Under €60), handily placed next to the ferry.
Food options are limited, but apart from the hotels the Quarter Deck restaurant at the Fiddlers Green pub provides a range of enjoyable fare, and Jumbo's, Castle Yard, is fine for coffee and brunch. The pubs are good at just about any time of year, with singalong folk sessions and traditional music at the Fiddlers Green most nights.