Ireland Guide
Donegal
Tory Island
With its ruggedly indented shores pounded by the ocean, Tory Island, though only 12km north of the mainland, is notoriously inaccessible. Yet despite the island's barren landscape and the ferocity of the elements, the Tory islanders are thriving
Tory's inaccessibility has long reinforced its remoteness, ensuring the retention of a powerful culture that has almost vanished from the mainland, referred to by islanders as "the country". Only 4km long and less than 1.5km wide, its vulnerability to the elements means little can grow here, and what does has to be protected from the salty winds behind stone walls. The Irish-speaking islanders have a deep respect for the island and its landscape, both as inspiration for their musicians, storytellers and artists and as a powerful source of legend.
A local superstition focuses on the wishing stone in the centre of the island, three circuits of which will supposedly lead to your desires being granted. According to legend, it was used to defeat invaders by wrecking their ships: the British gunboat Wasp, sent to collect taxes in 1884, was caught in a sudden storm that killed all but six of its crew.
Tory islanders are famed for their painting, a development that originated in a chance encounter between the English painter Derek Hill and one of the island's fishermen, James Dixon, in 1968, both now deceased. Dixon had never lifted a brush before the day he told Hill that he could do a better job of painting the Tory scenery, but he went on to become the most renowned of the island's school of primitive painters – Glebe House has a remarkable painting by him. You can view the islanders' work and, more than likely, meet the artists, at the James Dixon Gallery, the originator's former home, a little way to the east of the harbour.
Practicalities
You'll find most of the amenities in West Town. Óstán Thoraigh provides comfortable accommodation ( 
074/913 5920, 
www.toryhotel.com ; Price: €90-120), has one of the only two bars on the island, a fine restaurant serving seafood, and organizes a range of summer events, including traditional music and song, painting and birdwatching weekends, as well as running the Dive Tory centre for aquatic fans. For B&B, there's nearby Teach Bhillie ( 074/916 5145, www.toraigh.net ;Price: €60-90), which offers decent en-suite rooms and a small self-catering kitchen. The Social Club in West Town is one of the hubs of island life, with a bar and regular traditional music and dancing.
There are now two ferry services to Tory Island, both charging around €20 for a return trip. The first is operated by Turasmara Teo ( 074/953 1320, www.toryislandferry.com ). It has a daily sailing between April and October, which leaves Bunbeg at 9am and heads back from Tory soon after dropping off at around 10.30am depending on the tides (Nov– March sailings Mon– Fri only). There are additional sailings from Magheroarty (April– Oct daily 11.30am & 5pm plus July & Aug 1.30pm). Óstán Thoraigh also operates a daily service from Easter to October, leaving Magheroarty at 11am, 1pm, 4.30pm and 7pm. Departure times for both services may be affected by the tides and the weather, so always call ahead to check. Whatever the weather, be prepared for sudden changes and for a forced overnight stay on the island.