Budapest Guide
Óbuda and Margit-sziget
Óbuda is the oldest part of Budapest, though that's hardly the impression given by the factories and high-rises that dominate the district today, hiding such ancient ruins as remain. Nonetheless, it was here that the Romans built a legionary camp and a civilian town, later taken over by the Huns. Under the Hungarian Árpád dynasty this developed into an important town, but in the fifteenth century it was eclipsed by Várhegy. The original settlement became known as Óbuda (Old Buda) and was incorporated into the newly formed Budapest in 1873.
The tiny old town centre is as pretty as Várhegy, with several museums worth seeing, but to find the best-preserved Roman ruins you'll have to go to the Rómaifürdő district, further out. To the west, there is a pair of striking caves near the valley of Szépvölgy, a visit to which can be combined with the Kiscelli Museum, with its interesting collection of furniture and interior furnishings in a former monastery.
In the middle of the Danube, leafy Margit-sziget is a haven from the noise and pollution of the city. One of Budapest's favourite parks and summer pleasure-grounds, the island is part of its grand waterfront panorama – unlike shabby Óbudai-sziget just north which, like Cinderella, gets but one chance to have fun, by hosting Hungary's equivalent of Glastonbury, the Sziget festival, each August.
The HÉV from Batthyány tér provides easy access to riverside Óbuda, while a variety of trams and buses serve Margit-sziget. You can also reach Margit-sziget on one of the ferries which zigzag up the river from Boráros tér; for details.
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