Greece Guide
The East and North Aegean
The seven substantial islands scattered off the Aegean coast of Asia Minor form a rather arbitrary archipelago. While there are similarities in architecture and landscape, the strong individual character of each island is far more striking. Despite their proximity to modern Turkey, only Lésvos, Límnos and Híos bear significant signs of an Ottoman heritage in the form of old mosques, hamams and fountains, but by and large the enduring Greekness of these islands is testimony to a four-millennium-long Hellenic presence in Asia Minor, which ended only in 1923.
As in the Dodecanese, local agencies do a thriving business shuttling passengers between the easternmost islands and the Turkish coast with its archeological sites and busy resorts. Most main port-towns are urbanized capitals and far from picturesque; suppress any initial impulse to take the next boat out, and discover their worthwhile interiors. Also bear in mind that the tourist season this far north is short – late June to early September – with many restaurants and lodgings shut outside this period.
Sámos ranks as the most visited island of the group but, once you leave its crowded resorts behind, is still arguably the most beautiful, even after a devastating 2000 fire. Ikaría to the west remains relatively unspoilt, if a minority choice. Híos offers far more cultural interest than its neighbours to the south, but far fewer tourist facilities. Lésvos may not impress initially, though once you get a feel for its old-fashioned Anatolian ambience you may find it hard to leave. Límnos to the north is much livelier, its most popular villages and beaches – and attractive harbour capital – residing in its western half. To the north, Samothráki and Thássos are relatively isolated, and remain easier to visit from northern Greece, which administers them.
Highlights
1 Vathý, Sámos The two-wing archeological museum is among the best in Greece.
2 Ikaría Western Ikaría has superb beaches and an idiosyncratic lifestyle.
3 Sykiás Olýmbon cave, Híos Superb formations make this multilevelled cave one of the finest in Greece.
4 Mólyvos, northern Lésvos This castle-crowned resort village is arguably the most beautiful on the island.
5 Límnos villages Characterful, basalt-built villages with lively central tavernas and great wines to sample. See also "The East and North Aegean".
6 Samothráki The remote Sanctuary of the Great Gods is surrounded by natural grandeur.