Greece Guide
Crete
Crete (Kríti) is a great deal more than just another Greek island. In many places, especially in the cities or along the developed north coast, it doesn't feel like an island at all, but rather a substantial land in its own right. Which of course it is – a precipitous, wealthy and at times a surprisingly cosmopolitan one with a tremendous and unique history. But when you lose yourself among the mountains, or on the lesser-known coastal reaches of the south, it has everything you could want of a Greek island and more: great beaches, remote hinterlands and hospitable people. In history, Crete is distinguished above all as the home of Europe's earliest civilization. Today, with a flourishing agricultural economy, Crete is one of the few Greek islands that could probably support itself without tourists, although tourism is heavily promoted.
Every part of Crete has its loyal devotees and it's hard to pick out highlights, but generally if you want to get away from it all you should head west, towards Haniá and the smaller, less well-connected places along the south and west coasts. It is in this part of the island that the White Mountains rise, while below them yawns the famous Samariá Gorge. The far east, around Sitía, is also relatively unscathed, with a string of isolated beaches worth seeking out to the south of the over-popular Váï beach, which lures crowds attracted by its famous palm grove. Whatever you do, your first priority will probably be to leave Iráklion (Heraklion) as quickly as possible, having paid the obligatory, and rewarding, visit to the archeological museum and nearby Knossos. The other great Minoan sites cluster around the middle of the island: Phaestos and Ayía Triádha to the south, and Malia on the north coast. Unexpected highlights include Crete's Venetian forts at Réthymnon and Frangokástello; its hundreds of frescoed Byzantine churches; and the cluttered old Venetian and Turkish quarters at Réthymnon and Haniá.
Highlights
1 Archeological Museum, Iráklion The world's foremost Minoan museum. Once more reopened after a full refurbishment.
2 Knossos Knossos is the most exciting of the Minoan archeological ruins dotted across the island.
3 Beach resorts Mátala, Sitía and Paleohóra have bags of charm and excellent strands.
4 Haniá and Réthymnon old towns
These atmospheric centres display haunting vestiges of their Venetian and Turkish pasts and are a joy to wander around.
5 Samariá Gorge A magnificent gorge: the longest in Europe, offering a chance to see brilliant wildflowers, golden eagles and perhaps a Cretan ibex.