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Thuringia

Eating

    1 Alt Jena Markt 9 Historic pub on the Markt which prepares a large menu, including good fish, with prices almost as low as the ceilings upstairs.

    2 Bagels & Beans Leutragraben 6, opposite the Intershop Tower. Provides just what its name suggests, as well as free wi-fi and a couple of terminals for internet access.

    3 Cafe Stilbruch Wagnergasse 1–2 Milkshakes and breakfasts are legendary in this popular bistro with Art Nouveau leanings. There's also a good international menu.

    4 Cleanicum Wagnerstr. 11. Beer and cocktails while you wait for your laundry to finish.

    5 Grüne Tanne Karl-Leibknicht-Str. 1 Solid home-cooking just across the bridge in a riverside guesthouse where Goethe bunked down in 1817–18. Its joy is a river terrace. Opening time: Closed Sun eve & Mon

    6 Scala Intershop Tower 03641/35 66 66 www.scala-jena.de Fine international cuisine in Jena comes with superb views from floor-to-ceiling windows that wrap around the 28th floor of Jena's landmark tower.

    7 Zum Roten Hirsch Holzmarkt 10 An inn whose cocoon of snug panelled rooms dates back five centuries to its founding in 1509 and whose large menu comes at student prices.

    8 Zur Noll Oberlauengasse 20 03641 597 70 Cosy restaurant furnished in a sort of modern-rustic style that updates regional cooking with international flavours.