Germany Guide
Thuringia
Zitadelle Petersberg
Why the Zitadelle Petersberg above Domplatz is not a major attraction nor even a festival venue is a mystery. The only complete Baroque town fortress in central Europe is protected in statute but overlooked by the city and visitors alike despite an illustrious history. Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, Germany's real-life King Arthur, summoned nobles for five imperial Diets in the Peterskirche during the twelfth century, one of which saw Saxon duke Henry the Lion, the founder of Munich and ruler of most of present-day Lower Saxony and Schleswig-Holstein, humbled for refusing to back a disastrous escapade in Italy. Mainz archbishops took a similarly tough stance after city riots in 1664 – they consulted the latest French military ideas to create the massive Baroque citadel that recycles stone from the city's churches, one reason why Erfurt is no longer the "city of spires" medieval visitors acclaimed. The fortress's barn-like Peterskirche houses modern international concrete sculpture as the Forum Konkrete Kunst (Wed– Sun: May– Oct 10am–6pm; Nov– April 10am–4pm; free; www.forum-konkrete-kunst-erfurt.de) and the tourist office in a glass-box at the centre organizes several tours (Fri– Sun, times vary; from €4), including a trip into the labyrinth beneath the fortifications by flame-torches. As good a reason to go as any is the panorama from its massive bastions.