Germany Guide
The Black Forest
Eating
1 Le Jardin de France Lichtentaler Str. 13 
07221/300 78 60 Baden-Baden's elegant gourmet restaurant is in a courtyard off Lichtentaler Strasse, with a decor of antiques and flowers that's every bit as exquisite as the creative, modern French dishes served (mains €28–38). The service is immaculate and reservations required. Opening time: Closed Tues lunch & Mon
2 
Medici Augustaplatz 8 07221/20 06 Belle époque-style restaurant which has welcomed Bill Clinton and Nelson Mandela yet serves moderately priced (mains €8–16) items like zander filet with pancetta, tomato and aubergine torte and, the house special, a Thai chicken curry. Opening time: Closed Mon
3 Rathausglöckel Steinstr. 7 07221/906 10 Traditional favourites like venison goulash (€9.50) and winter-warmer potato soup (€7) are served in this cosy sixteenth-century house on a side street off the Marktplatz.
4 Stahlbad Augustaplatz 2 07221/245 69 Aristocrat among local restaurants where traditional Black Forest dishes like trout, goose or venison steak are elevated to new heights with the addition of exquisite French flavours. In the right season, look out too for the first-class fettuccini Alfredo with white truffles. Most mains are in the €15–30 range. Opening time: Closed Mon
5 Café König Lichtentaler Str. 12 07221/235 73 The place for Kaffee und Kuchen and a throwback to the elegant days pictured on the black-and-white prints on its walls. The delicate Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest gâteau) is the finest you'll eat and there's quiche, soups and salads for lunch. Opening time: Closed eve
6 In der Trinkhalle Kaiserallee 3 07221/05 30 29 Idyllic café in a wing of the Trinkhalle that's perfect for a lazy cappuccino or light lunch on the suntrap terrace or a leather Chesterfield inside.
7 Kurhaus Bistro Kaiserallee 1 07221/90 70 Attached to the Kurhaus and so a cut above the usual bistro, with signed photos covering the walls of dignitaries who have sampled its international menu, which follows the seasons. Dishes are in the €8–21 range.
8 Leo's Luisenstr. 8–10 07221/380 81 Heaving bistro and wine bar that's Baden-Baden's hippest hangout; the restaurant – all chocolate-coloured woods and black-and-white photos – serves international dishes (average €15) in wonderful sauces nuanced with the likes of Dijon mustard and rosemary. Open until 3am.
9 Lowenbräu Gernsbacher Str. 9 07221/223 11 A Bavarian beerhall wafted west to bring jollity to the town's poise. Perhaps a bit formulaic, but the beer garden and hall are both cheerful and the food dependable and solid, with mains averaging €15.