Germany Guide
Saxony-Anhalt and the Harz
Rübeland
The severe little town of RÜBELAND strung out along the Bode River, 15km from Thale, has been on the tourist map ever since the 600,000-year-old Baumannshöhle cave (daily: July & Aug 9am–5.30pm; Feb– June, Sept & Oct 9am–4.30pm; Nov– Jan 9am–3.30pm; €5; 039454/491 32, www.harzer-hoehlen.de) was discovered by a fifteenth-century miner. Goethe toured the cave three times, as did Heine, treading in the footsteps of Stone Age inhabitants and Ice Age bears, some of whose skeletons are on display. Neighbouring Hermannshöhle is more modest, but its stalagmites and stalactites more impressive. It operates the same times and prices as Baumannshöle, though between November and April, the two sets of caves open on alternate days; call in advance to find out which is open when. Rübeland is reachable from Thale and Quedlinburg by bus via Blankenburg.